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Normally I think cheese goes with everything, even sugar. The best Southwestern/Mexican dessert, after all, is capirotada, a cinnamon- and clove-spiced bread pudding with both raisins and Colby Longhorn or Monterey Jack. But until this summer I never quite got the weirdness of combining it with melon. Even though I don't love cantaloupe unless it's well salted, or at least draped with prosciutto. Maybe my resistance was weakened by all the "rose wine" in Istanbul. There it started to make sense that honeydew-type melons are often teamed with the salty local "white cheese." The nuttiness and the fruitiness harmonize, even more so when licoricey raki is flowing. (As the website notes, it doesn't "meter" what you serve that Turkish tequila with.) Then the other night we trekked to a lavish picnic hosted by Greek wine importers and promoters at Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn, and the first thing I tasted was a wedge of perfect watermelon topped with feta plus fresh dill and mint. It was wildly good. And it looked gorgeous*. Then again, the two very different rosés being poured, from Kir-Yianni and Semeli, could have weakened my resistance. A really amazing watermelon really needs nothing. But this is a pretty good way to dress it up for company. *Photo copyrighted by the amazing Bob Sacha. 
Epicurious fans quickly realized how using their smartphone could help them plan meals and make shopping lists, right in the grocery store. In fact, Epi's iPhone app has been downloaded more than 2 million times and is now available for the envious Android users who pleaded for a parallel app. Now they too can search the Epicurious recipe database and e-mail recipes when they are on the go. Grocery stores also see the potential in smartphones, and keeping their customers happy and informed could mean big bucks. The demand is certainly there: Progressive Grocer reports that more than half of those who took part in a recent survey on "The Interactive Future of Food" said they would like access to more product information while they shopped for food, on issues such as health considerations, food origins, whether or not a product is organic, farming practices, food safety, and ingredients. The study by the Latitude research company also revealed that a third of the respondents asked for practical store information, such as where to find items, the latest prices, and inventory status. Do you think getting food information from the supermarket on your phone will help you when you shop for groceries? What information would you find useful? Store-to-phone coupons? 
The latest installment in our Around the World in 80 Dishes series is doro wett, an Ethiopian chicken stew with a thick, spiced sauce. When I was working on this story, I was struck by a quote in chef Marcus Samuelsson's book New American Table, which focuses on immigrant cooking in America. "I've always thought that in Americawhere you have access to the highest-quality ingredients and great cooking suppliesyou can often make ethnic food that actually tastes better than it does in its native country," writes Samuelsson. This is a bold statement, but it makes sense: These days, in most parts of the country, we can buy not only top-notch, fresh-from-the-farm produce, meat, and dairy, but also all the once-obscure seasonings required to produce authentic dishes from around the world. Case in point: berbere, the pungent spice mix that's a required element in many Ethiopian recipes, including doro wett. Our recipe (from Samuelsson) explains how to make it at home, but you can also easily order it from kalustyans.com, an indispensable source for many ethnic ingredients. (We often find ourselves linking to Kalustyans from Around the World in 80 Dishes articles.) Do you like to cook less-known ethnic dishes? Do you agree with Samuelsson's statementdo you find it easy to get top-quality ethnic ingredients? 
The peanut butter taste test results are in! We blind-tasted 21 creamy peanut butters, and found three that we loved. But, we will admit that many of us were surprised to find that the jars we stash in our own kitchen cupboards weren't necessarily the ones we favored in the tasting. Do you have a favorite creamy peanut butter brand that you swear by? 
As I mentioned a few weeks ago, one of my summer kitchen projects is Thai tea ice cream. The inspiration comes not so surprisingly from the Thai iced tea I inhale each time I'm at a Thai restaurant. Recently, while enjoying said cold beverage, I came up with the brilliant idea to try making Thai tea ice cream. Of course, I'm not the only one to think of this. A quick online search yielded about a half dozen recipes and like I said, that was without really even looking. Before I get into the recipes, here is a quick overview of Thai iced tea or "cha yen": While I've only ever had Thai iced tea made with sweetened condensed milk, Culinate reports that it can be made at least a couple different ways, including with half-and-half and sugar or with half sweetened condensed milk and half evaporated milk. The tea itself also seems to vary. According to Heidi Swanson of 101 Cookbooks, Thai tea is made with "a red-leafed tea grown locally in Thailand" and "spiced up with a mix of vanilla, cinnamon, and star anise." But, a couple other sources say it's actually black tea with vanilla, cinnamon, and star anise, plus food coloring to give it that beautiful orange hue. At the risk of admitting my own lack of authenticity, I will tell you that the tea I used was actually green tea with food coloring. Like Swanson, I had some trouble locating red-leafed tea, but I was eager to get started so I just moved forward with what I could find. Now that I've nearly perfected the recipe, I'll continue the search. Many of the recipes I found were fairly similar but because I tend to like ice cream made with egg yolks (so luscious) and wanted an excuse to buy a tea sock, I started with this recipe from the blog My Cake Wardrobe. Noticing the author's comment that she might try making the ice cream a touch sweeter next time, I added ¼ cup of sugar. Otherwise, I mostly followed the recipe, except that I was a little more cautious when it came to tempering the hot milk into the yolks and I strained the ice cream before chilling. This first batch was pretty amazing. It's actually some of the best ice cream I've ever made; I couldn't get over how smooth and creamy it was though considering how much milk and how many egg yolks are in the recipe, I don't know why I was so surprised. The extra sugar was a wise choice as it bumped up the sweetened condensed milk just enough. Still, the ice cream wasn't quite as tea-flavored as I wanted. Plus, the ice cream was a little pale; I wanted it to look more like a glass filled with that lovely, slightly opaque orange tea. After some experimentation, I found that increasing the steeping time (rather than adding more tea) was all that was required. The longer steeping also... 
As you may know, I'm in Chicago right now for the second stop on Epicurious' Farmers' Market Tour. This morning I will be at the Daley Plaza market with renowned chef Gale Gand, who is here as a vocal participant of Chefs Move to Schools, part of Michelle Obama's Let's Move initiative. If you're in Chicago, drop by our booth and say hello. While I'm here, I'm hosting another episode of ABC News' Chef's Table, which airs Thursdays on ABC HD channels worldwide, as well as on the Good Morning America web site. Yesterday for the show I shot with Art Smith, chef-owner of Table 52. Besides being Oprah's personal chef for over a decade, cooking for the First Family, writing cookbooks, and running his Chicago restaurant and Art & Soul in Washington D.C., Smith has somehow found the time to cook up Common Threads with his partner Jesus Salgueiro. The charity's purpose is to unite kids through food, and give economically disadvantaged children free cooking and nutrition lessons. At Epi, we believe in Smith's goalthat of teaching kids to cook so they can take care of themselves and others around them with wholesome, delicious food. To help fund the program and get some great recipes, buy a copy of Eat The World: Good-For-You Food for Families. 
Food and drink festivals offer a fun, tasty destination for a summer road trip. Do you travel to festivals? Here, 15 good choices this week. New York: Northeast Jazz & Wine Festival (July 29-31) Indiana: Frankfort Hot Dog Festival (July 30-31) Ohio: Columbus Wine Festival (July 30-31) Wisconsin: 2nd Annual Taste of Wisconsin (July 30-August 1) Mississippi: Natchez Food & Wine Festival (July 30-August 1) Florida: Key Largo Food & Wine Festival (July 30-August 8) Vermont: 3rd Annual Deerfield Valley Blueberry Festival (July 30-August 8) California: 8th Annual Mendocino Herb Fair (July 31) Illinois: Taste of the Region (July 31) Maine: Artisan Bread Fair (July 31) New Jersey: Wine Art Music Poetry Project Festival (July 31) Oklahoma: Watermelon Festival & Craft Show (July 31) South Dakota: Clark Potato Day (July 31) California: Watsonville Strawberry Festival (July 31-August 1) Colorado: 14th Annual Bluegrass and Beer Festival (July 31-August 1) 
Honestly, I didn't intend to head back to the Greenmarkets for inspiration so soon. But because I didn't think to tote my own Canon to a party over the weekend, the image for my next post is being held hostage in my consort's camera (or his iPhone) while he deals with the 5,000 things on his own plate. (If work were a buffet, he would line up seven times. Which is more proof that opposites definitely attract.) But this slacker can honestly say the heirloom zucchini on display at so many stands at Union Square today are well worth tracking down (these were at Paffenroth, one of my favorite vendors). They look strange, with their pale skins and their ribs showing, but they really taste, and cook, like zucchini should. So much of the summer squash you usually can buy is pretty insipid, and smaller is always better. These are good even sized like Louisville Sluggers because they are neither watery nor seedy. Great tomatoes are still more a promise than a sensation here, but Romanesco squash are superb stewed with them (cut the zucchini lengthwise into quarters, then crosswise into thin slices; season them with garlic and basil or oregano). But they're also irresistible sliced, dipped in a batter made from chickpea flour, water and salt, and shallow-fried. Or you can grate them to make zucchini pancakes, which always sound most alluring to me when it's too hot to turn on the stove. And of course they work even better than regular old zucchini in Southwestern classics like calabacitas, with either fresh corn or canned hominy If you can stomach all the ad interruptions, other ways to make the most of them can be found on the LATimes sitemess in a piece I did a few years ago on how there really is no such thing as too much zucchini. At least not of the right kind. 
I've been eating biscuits in the Black Belt of Alabama for the better part of a week now. Not just biscuits. Fried catfish sandwiches, too. And liver and onions with rice. And blueberry pie. But the biscuits have gotten my attention. They're reminded me that not all biscuit forms are alike. Hereabouts, I've eaten diminutive catheads and oversized freezer case behemoths alike. What's more, my recent Black Belt eating has reminded me of the great diversity of morning biscuit fillings out there. Sausage biscuits, of the patty and link variety, are ubiquitous throughout the South. Ditto bacon biscuits. More scarce are pork tenderloin biscuits. And streak-o-lean biscuits. Scarcer still are the salmon croquette biscuits and rag bologna biscuits that I'm seeing in the small town cafes hereabouts. As a child growing up in Georgia, I ate salmon croquette biscuits often. While I was eating a salmon biscuit this morning -- made with cheap-as-dirt canned salmon and loads of freshly chopped onions -- I began wondering why I ever gave them up. Next up, a pan-fried bologna biscuit. 
Two additional restaurant suggestions for Tanya's week in Chicago, and for anyone deciding what's worth eating now in one of the country's great dining destinations: First suggestion: The new Elysian hotel, a few blocks off North Michigan, is partly owned by Alice Waters' nephew and the pedigree shows. The hotel is modeled after a twenties Parisian grand dame hotel and the result is actual adult boutique hotel, the kind that doesn't confuse itself for a party lounge, so you don't have to run the gauntlet of drunk kids in the lobby. But that doesn't mean the hotel is clueless when it comes to offering a good time, or better food. In fact drawing as many locals as hotel guests, always an encouraging sign, the Elysian's two restaurants, both overseen by chef Jason McLeod and chef de cuisine Danny Grant in a double tour de force, offer a contrasting sample of contemporary cooking. My favorite of the two dining rooms is the more casual Balsan, a buzzy, reasonably priced (small plates hover around $12.00; large average $25) bistro punctuated by a long bar and marble tables. It's a little reminiscent of the always superb Avec and the menu wanders all over the place. If you're freely wandering get one of the thin crust pizzas pulled from the wood-fired oven (the Goffredo is crowned with proscuitto, arugula, and a sweet, fruity tomato suace). The now obligatory charcuterie is, well, meaty, but I prefer two other small plates: the knockout cured sardine and fennel laid over grilled sourdough, and a perfectly composed dish of porcini mushrooms, chicken livers and a soft-boiled hen egg. Among larger plates the standout is the suckling pig, another dish that pops up on too many menus now and usually sounds better than it tastes. But the Balsan version is perfect, the sweet crackling skin just a thin strip that doesn't overpower the tender pork. For dessert ignore the other inevitability (the creme brulee that seems to have become, by some legal decree, a mandated item on every menu in America now) and order the Paris Brest (pictured). Already locally famous, the wreath of choux pastry explodes with a cloud of hazelnut nougatine and praline cream and it's the best dessert I've tasted this year. If you want to spend more money, cross the hall to the formal, sedate Ria, where it's easy to make a memorable meal out of the sweet Dungeness crab meat rolled up in leeks, and a veal sweetbread with fava beans, green garlic, and lemon. If you want to spend less though a good option is another recently opened Chicago kitchen that mines a very different omnipresent trend. In fact Wicker Park's Big Star follows all the rigid rules of hipster dining. It doesn't take reservations, it self-consciously mimics a back-country dive bar, it comes packed with boys in porkpie hats, and, the best thing, it's really cheap. Plus, it takes its food, despite all the faux, hee-haw informality, as seriously as any Michelin... 
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